Today began with coffee and a deliciously gooey jam and custard doughnut at Tees St cafe in Oamaru before a visit to Steampunk HQ. Located in an 1800s cube of a limestone building, with a fire-breathing stream train cab out the front, the New Zealand headquarters of this Victorian, sci-fi futuristic, steam powered genre is a Pandora's box of fantastical metal sculptures and mechanical gizmos.

An hour and a half on the road brought us to Dunedin, an Edinburgh of the Southern hemisphere, with very familiar street names and even a stream called the Water of Leith running through the university. We drove out to the western tip of the Otago Peninsula (through Portobello), home to thousands of gulls, the largest mainland breeding colony of albatross and some WWI and WWII era artillery.

We finished the evening with a Panhead Pilsner, Mac's cloudy apple cider and the Pablo Escobar pizza from Biggies Pizza in a a bar just off the Octagon called suburbia. The pizza was very, very good. They had a wall of photos of customers who'd finished one of their 20" pizzas solo. One for next time....